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HomeMy WebLinkAboutT C (76) Application # APPLICATION FOR Date TOWN OF SOUTH WINDSOR Receipt ZONING BOARD OF APPEALS application must be submitted to the Planning Department by the second gyp_g_Tom: This heard at the next meeting. Frida of the recedin month to insure being THE APPLICATION WILL BE ALL ITEKS MUST BE ANSHF.RF.D AND ALL SUpPI,El�1TS MUST BE SIIBHITTED. RETMM IF INCOMPLETE. printed in ink. _ The application and supplements must be filed in duple e� typed or property in question must be submitted with the A Class D or better s dimensions, ed, and buildings on adjacent p lines, urvey of the prop Properties and distance application showing streets, lot lines, building lines, zone boundary and buildings present or propos P from subject property. al description of the property must be submitted re uested, a leg a records. w a variance is being q tion can be obtained from mortgag with the application. This description ert at least 10 y$ The signin a location visible from from the all abutting streets. Planning Department must be displayed on the prop prior to the public hearing The time, applicant, or a representative, must be present for the public hearing. _ The date and place of the hearing will be advised by mail. _ Inquiries. on this application may be directed to the Planning Department at the South Windsor Town Hall. APPLICANT: Heavenly hog, Inc. c/o Mx. David Koltunber MAILING ADDRESS 520 Center Street, Manchester, CT 06040 William Krawski Sr. OWNER OF RECORD OF PROPERTY IN QUESTION LOCATION OF PROPERTY IN QUESTION 130 Buckland Road ASSESSOR'S MAP122 PARCEL# LOT# ZONE A"3a CHECK ONE OF THE FOLLOWING: of the Zoning g Regulations to allow Request Variance to Section__ _ �_of the General Statutes for or state hearing under Section X or temporary and conditional permit for sit-down full service family restaurant 2 year permit) . Zoning Officer's decision involving or an appeal from the /1 F OP r October 9 , 1990 C E R T I F I E D M A I L Mr . William Krawski Sr . 130 Buckland Road South Windsor, Ct 06074 RE : ZBA Application #1604-90 Dear Mr . Krawski : This is to notify you that your application to the South Windsor Zoning Board of Appeals requesting a two-year temporary & conditional permit for a Bed & Breakfast Inn, a barn restaurant, and for the sale of sheds and gazeboes on property located at 130 Buckland Rd . (AA-30 Zone) has been granted . The following conditions apply: 1 . The restaurant is limited to seat a maximum of 50 people . 2 . No liquor is to be served on the premises by the proprietor . 3 . The signs presently on the telephone poles are to be removed . 4 . No parking on Buckland Road will be permitted . This action is effective October 4 , 1990 . This permit will expire in two years (October 4, 1992) and will have to be renewed at that time . Very truly yours, Robert Warren Chairman Zoning Board of Appeals RW!d lb i ap s� cy) 1540 SULLIVAN AVENUE SOUTH WINDSOR• CONN. 06074 �� AREA CODE 203/644-2511 October 5 , 1992 �?.-......_--'1._ Mr . William J. Krawski 130 Buckland Road South Windsor , CT 06074 RE: Application #2076-92 - W30liam J.ndrawski Road a Dear Mr . Krawski : This is to notify you that at the October 1 , 1992 meeting of the South Windsor Zoning Board of Appeals your request for renewal of a two year temporary & conditional permit for a Bed & Breakfast Inn, a barn restaurant and for the sale of sheds and asgazebos on property located at 130 Buckland Road (AA-30 Zone) The following conditions apply : 1 . All previous conditions shall apply . 2 . Approval is contingent upon the applicant complying with all other zoning regulations that are applicable as of today . 3 . Approval shall be null and void if applicant is in violation of any present zoning regulations . This action is effective October 1 , 1992 • This i sh pantoave to willrenewed expire in two vear5,, .� abr . 1 19 +� aid w at that t1iMe. Very truly ,;ours , Marjorie Anthony Vice Chairperson Zoning Board of Appeals MA/asb COMPREHE NSOVE ° BUSINESS SERVICES Sal Garofalo P.O. Box 1104, South Windsor, CT 06074 FAX (203) 644-9215 Phone (203) 644-6393 June 22, 1993 Mr. Robert Warren, Chairman Zoning Board of Appeals Town Hall 1540 Sullivan Avenue South Windsor, CT 06074 Dear Mr. Warren: I am pleased to hear that The Heavenly Hog restaurant is planning to relocate to South Windsor if all the proper approvals are granted. I have known Mr. Kolumber through business and am familiar with his restaurant, as a patron with both clients and my family. The restaurant provides excellent food. Clients that I have taken there have always been very much impressed. This possible relocation will establish another quality restaurant in town. The Heavenly Hog, will also provide the town with additional tax revenue and employees who will also be doing business in town. It is very nice know that a business is relocating in South Windsor rather than a 1/4 mile up the road in Manchester. Let's do everything possible to make this a very smooth relocation rather than a tangled mess in city hall. Sincerely, Sal Garofalo R E C If--- I V E D JUN �-.r 1993 V. WINDSOR PLANNING DEPT. 30 1993 June 25, 1993 Mr. Robert Warren, Chairman Zoning Board of Appeals Town Hall 1540 Sullivan Avenue South Windsor, Ct. 06074 Dear Mr. Warren: I am very pleased to hear that the Heavenly Hog restaurant is meeting with your board about relocating on Buckland Road. From my patronizing this establishment I can state that the restaurant has excellent food service in a nice family atmosphere. I highly recommend its move to Buckland Road and the addition of a quality business to the town. Sincerely, Joseph Garofalo J ti 149-� J June 25, 1993 Zoning Board of Appeals Town Hall Sullivan Avenue South Windsor, Ct. 06074 To Whom It May Concern: The move to Buckland Road by the Heavenly Hoch restaurant is one that will benefit South Windsor in many ways. The food and atmosphere are superb and I highly recommend its placement in our town. Sincerely --a0'�r Raymond T �Z�r lqq ot (+ [Vk C11 4Ak-A- 4r, vCe-AA ivi 4A�, C,-AA be- L"k -4, June 28 , 1993 To Whom it May Concern ; As a long term resident and business owner in South Windsor I would like to express my support for the Heavenly Hog Restaurant in its relocation plan . Because of its popularity and fine reputation it would be an attractive addition to our notable roster of unique local restaurants . Linda Pagani and David Kolumber are committed to excellence in product and service , and their business will be an asset to the community . I feel that we are fortunate that they have chosen our town for their new home . The Heavenly Hog is well known for being family oriented and quality conscious . A better neighbor would be difficult to find . Sincerely, < 1 t " c t� Jean Hill LAG ' �ry lb VIA. r All" h ,..,C., [ his resmurHra k) � M plum Lf) d .I [fit.... In Wrolu K rant"'A muy QmAjo., Y van won ?ydny (A ( urn i1m: yarkaj m Lm iz� ll JjA per f uct a" and ,ploaginq PC) Ere pajatq : O�i�l i_ q�:, * ��j I, I! C ` yr ri �� C�y� rY r� r r� _ y�"-at.'yj'1` �''t- 7u t �U � -)o4-- .71� `) cam- 9 U-j► Lp �GU .C�azz� a auto Supped "SERVING YOU FOR OVER 30 YEARS" 835 JOHN FITCH BOULEVARD SOUTH WINDSOR, CONNECTICUT 06074 (203) 289-8674 FAX (203) 289-3578 1/4 t M a. C 1A rl 1" 1,1-1 th(a t-o"."n c,04 winclsor al lowan. ce:v- which 611cajlcll rIcc:Kl to be rn el�ad tri orrJ,!�'r 1 or tll--i(:, i.1 lk-�,avc,"il.ly 11c)(1, to c"pen a loc'llt I o n ci r I I("1--',1.a I I d IR cl P.O.BOX T [ S ANITAR Y SOUTH WINDSOR,CT 06074 TELEPHONE 282-0118 WASTE DISPOSAL CO. FAX 528-5740 June 29, 1993 Town of South Windsor Zoning Board To Whom It May Concern: Sanitary Waste Disposal Company is writing to you to offer an endorsement for The Heavenly Hog Restaurant to locate in the Town of South Windsor. We are familiar with the reputation of this fine restaurant, having enjoyed many supurb meals in their Manchester facility. Further, it is our understanding that the management of The Heavenly Hog has impeccable business practices. Therefore, it is our position that The Heavenly Hog Restauuant would be a welcome addition to the South Windsor community - from a business point of view and from a fine dining point of view! Very truly yours, Fred DeFeo President FDF:tma June 30 , 1993 To whom it may concern: I am writing this letter on behalf of Linda Pagani , Proprietor of The Heavenly Hog Restaurant in Manchester, Ct. As a resident of South Windsor for over 30 years, I have witnessed the growth in the numberny e new our small but ever growing community. have been restaurants . Although I enjoy going out to lunch or dinner now and then, I must say that there really isn' t anything new in the way of variety. I believe a restaurant such as The Heavenly Hog would offer that variety and give the people of this town a choice of something other than pizza or Chinese. I have eaten at The Heavenly Hog on many occasions , and find the food to be excellent, the restaurant clean and the people friendly & courteous. Linda Pagani herself is a fine business woman sand he iswould bena great asset to our business community. What South Windsor is something new and different and should be given the opportunity to prove that. As far as location goes , she couldn' t have chosen a better spot to open a restaurant of this type. What better place than a farm to serve the best bar-b-qued chicken, ribs , and grilled fish. (I won' t even get into the deserts ! ) I say let South Windsor have some variety where food service is ientAandnd lcomfortable but et it e in an atmosphere that' s alsobeautifuland most onlyy conven conven fitting. As our motto goes . . it South Windsor is a great place to live, work and prosper" . I think Linda Pagani should also have the opportunity to prosper. I feel she should be granted what ever it takes to achieve that and serve the people of South Windsor and neighboring towns . Sincerely, kZt A, Florence Duprey 404 Sandstone Drive South Windsor, CT July 1, 1993 South Windsor Zoning Commission Town Hall Sullivan Avenue South Windsor,CT 06074 David A. Helmin 1832 John Fitch Boulevard South Windsor, CT 06074 Dear Commissioner and Board Members, I am writing to you with regard to the request by the owners of the Heavenly Hog Restaurant, presently located in Manchester,CT,to move their facility to Krawski Farms, Buckland Road,South Windsor,CT. Robert Krajewski,one of my students in the Morse School of Business Hotel and Restaurant Management Program and an employee at the Heavenly Hog has brought in many different menu items offered by the restaurant. The food quality of the items tasted was excellent and very popular with the other students. I have also read a couple of reviews done by various newspapers about the restaurant and all of those reviews were quite favorable. The reviews spoke of the consistent quality of food, cleanliness of the restaurant , and professional service attitude. As being a resident of South Windsor,I realize that there is a trend of retail expansion stemming from the Buckland Hills Mall towards the center of South Windsor. Due to this expansion,as you know,Buckland Road is being expanded to four lanes. I believe that by allowing the Heavenly Hog Restaurant to locate at the above mentioned address won't be detrimental to maintaining the quality of life in the center of South Windsor. In fact,by allowing more businesses to build along Buckland Road,and only up to Town Center,will help with the current tax base in South Windsor. This move could also benefit other small business owners located in the immediate area. If you have any questions,please contact me at my residence. t tful ubmitted, . Hein " L •e�•yJZG 2'G,��%L,' � ��,7 rJ � Ace. 71.10-3 Robert, Warren. Chairman Zoning Board of Appeals South Windsor Town Hall 1540 Sullivan Avenue ';niAh Windsor, CT 06074 1- Re : Heavenly Hog Restaurant Dear Mr. Warren and the Zoning Board of Appeals: This is in regards to locating the Heavenly Hog Restaurant in South Windsor- My husband and i feel. it would benefit South Windsor's economy as well as gastronomically! We have eaten at the Manchester location several times and found it very enjoyable - It is always busy and. caters, to the family type of patronage . We would lave to have the Heavenly Hog Restaurant at our door step and hope the Zoning Board feels the same . Sincerely Sincerely yours, �'��1,4-d- 4-- ,1 6- Mr. & Mrs. Frank T. Lucca 906 Sandstone Drive South Windsor, CT P They do have the PF,,"Y' ribs in the State ' I I �40we ae,<� o C 61 9 1540 SULLIVAN AVENUE SOUTH WINDSOR, CONN. 06074 AREA CODE 203/644-2511 SOR•Co July 12 , 1993 M A L—L Heavenly Hog , Inc. 520 Center Street Manchester , CT 06040 ATT: Mr . David Kolumber RE: Application #2144-93 - Heavenly Hog, Inc. 130 Buckland Road Dear Mr . Kolumber : This is to notify you that at the July 1 , 1993 meeting of the South Windsor Zoning Board of Appeals you were granted a two year temporary and conditional permit for a sit-down full service family restaurant at 130 Buckland Rd . , AA-30 Zone. The following conditions shall apply: This approval is subject to Site Plan of Development approval by the Planning & Zoning Commission, as well as all other necessary Boards. This action is effective July 1 , 1993. This permit will expire in tYL0_Y_P--a"5 (July 1 , 1995) and will have to be renewed at that time if the use is to be continued. Very truly yours, Robert W. Warren, Chairperson Zoning Board of Appeals RWW/asb MM b•uAr}Qj{�p h'rr'tt�� '� • s:�a-:N=-.'.L:i-w1:'•':.,.�.�..nl•'Y,v�eh ��>.'' y++yy,'_"L'-n:'K�'1`y"2�:iiv..]YZ. G 1 js�j 1 ! fj ManchesterR113S 13E rr Heavenly Hog pff/ metr i • Annual 1992 Restaurant Awards Editor L Publisher t 1 2'•� �i i�~ Y 11 I.rir ..-1{1l+:r;lt!rn�T.lit�iA�N:rfi�a.bFlltAAN. Q�'^' fi h lt��ll�fl{ri.t�fvfii�slif�l:�li���t.�;i lilt�i�11Y��.�r•S:{1frt:th Jttirl�.rlttl l� �1:. ..t1r f: � rt .. i , ,,'drr.1`•z'A' i�r.�.t r r �,;+r. oi�nfNf�+sl)�•f;i�ti=ift�n�r mola,mnntT,^,1 a r:r rneuirN.'4.'"7Per"�`R'. Pt Quarterdeckers wow diners" By Vicki-lynn Seebacher "The Quarterdeck Singers have been wowing audi- ences with their renditions of Broadway, burlesque and upbeat '40s and '50s tunes for more than 20 years. The group's main stomping ground is Ro- mie's Quarterdeck Restaurant in Danvers. The first of three shows began with a medley of songs from the musical "Cabaret." The minimal choreography for this act seemed choppy and under-rehearsed. However, the bumpy pace set by that first number was soon forgotten as the performers became focused and relaxed. The first show continued with a gutsy rendition of "New York, New York" sung by superior bass-baritone David Ko- lumber., Kolumber's laid-back vocal style make the song's many crescendos and eye-opening experience.Kolumber's ease on stage comes from more than 14 years on the New York club ` circuit. While in New York, he shared the stage with Colleen Dewhurst, Christopher Reeve and Maureen McGovern for the Helen Hayes' "Save the Theater Project." The second show of the evening opened with a Burlesque- style comedy parade of cute and slightly off-color adult jokes. The extreme energy of this pun-exchange saved the cast from embarrassment and earned them a few heartfelt laughs. Gloucester resident Michael Cooper is the group's founder and director. His formidable tenor talents were showcased during a delightful duet from the "Phantom of the Opera." His stage sidekick for this masterful song was the expressive and energetic soprano, Diane Pickering. Pickering is a Lynn resi- dent whose significant vocal credits include membership in the New England Conservatory Chorus. As a choral member, Pickering performed at Symphony Hall in Boston under.the direction of such renowned conductors as Claudio Abbado, Robert Shaw and Seizi Ozawa. Another highlight performance was delivered by Manchester resident Elaina Fratos. Elaina's alto-soprano voice oozed with steamy sex appeal during the sultry ballad "Where the Boys Are." Back-up vocalists Joy McNaughton and Diane Pickering filled in with smooth undertones. The show stopper of the night was sung by Andover vocalist Jane O'Reilly. Her rendition of"The Man That Got Away" left the audience starry-eyed. Her combination of vocal excellence and sparkling stage presence was intoxicating. O'Reilly is a graduate of Emerson College. She has displayed her vocal prowess in many musical productions including"The Sound of Music" at Keene Summer Theater. The last show of the evening was brief and closed with an awesome finale. The Quarterdeck Singers joined hands to sing "Let There be Peace on Earth" and the audience sang along. They will be back at Romie's June 6 and 18, 508-774-1112. They will also perform Friday nights this fall at Webbie's Diner in j Lynn. For further schedule information call 508-281-5008. Actor- turned-chef heads new eate ry By DIANNA M.TALBOT , Manchester Herald MANCHESTER — David F '` Kolumber has a passion for food and for the performing arts.So he decided to make a career out of both. In March, Kolumber opened Heavenly Hog Restaurant at 520 E. Center St., which specializes q III in smoked and barbecue-style meat dishes. He is in the process ` of developing the restaurant into what he hopes someday will be- come a franchise. In addition, the Manchester High School Class of 1973 graduate satisfies a need to artis- tically express himself by per- Y,. forming as a singer at local wed- dings and as a fill-in for a dinner theater in the Boston area. The combination of careers is fulfilling, said Kolumber, who worked as a singer in New York City nightclubs for several years ALL- before deciding to open the res- Judy Harding/Manchester Herald taurant in his hometown.At one time, however, he did CAREER COMBO— David Kolumber, owner of The Heavenly Hog, sits in front of a plate attempt to make a solo career out of barbecued ribs and french fries at his 520 Center St. restaurant. He says he has found of the performing arts. self-fulfillment in both operating a restaurant and moonlighting as a performer. "New York was such a rat race I decided not to pursue it," formances. offer people who like to eat out a priced entrees, including bar- Kolumber said. He later decided to leave the different type of menu at his res- becue pork, ribs and chicken, Addressing a penchant for city again to pursue another tart, smoked turkey breast and grilled good food, Kolumber left New career in the culinary arts. He "I've always loved smoked fish. Prices range from $2.95 to York, and in 1984 opened up a decided to open up the Heavenly meats," he said. "I've had my $13.95. Appetizers, such as soup gourmet food shop in Glaston- Hog,after learning that a Chinese own smoker at home for years." or salad, range from $1.95 to bury called Cravings.But he was food restaurant at the Center The Heavenly Hog smokes $5.95. forced to close the shop after Street location had closed. meat naturally,using woods such The restaurant is open for only a few months because of an "I had been looking for some- as hickory or applewood, and lunch Monday through Friday, accident in which he fell and thing like this in the area for a does not use nitrate-based preser- 11:30 am. to 3 pm.; Saturday, broke his back. couple of years,"Kolumber said. vatives,said Kolumber. 11:30 am. to 2:30 p.m.; and for After a year of recovery, "I just decided I was going to do Business has been good so far, dinner, Monday through Kolumber's desire to perform it." he said."I'm very pleased." Thursday,5 to 9 p.m.;and Friday drove him back to New York Before opening the restaurant, Heavenly Hog's lunch and and Saturday, 5 to 10 pm. It is City,where he continued his per- Kolumber decided that he would dinner menus offer moderately- closed on Sunday. r ® Ala 'C, ) carte , ' J Fritter away Guys and dolls in Manchester can really hog down on Monday nights, starting Oct. 5. David Kolumber, owner of The Heavenly Hog at 520 Center St., Man- chester, is offering-an all-you-can-eat rib and corn frit- ter special fore/j:y,- and he's already pretested it on members of the cast of "Guys and Dolls," that played j last week at the Bushnell. They reportedly loved it, a bushel and a peck and a hug around the Hog. Kolumber used to sing in musical theater and caba- rets in New York City, where he was a roommate of Steve Beckler, who is production supervisor for the road show of "Guys and Dolls." After rehearsal one night, cast members came to the Hog for ribs and fritters. "They freaked out when they had them," Kolumber said,"And I said: `I think this will work.' " The Heavenly Hog is now closed for lunch. It will be open for dinner Monday through Thursday, from 4:30 p.m. to 9 Vim.; Friday, from 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Satur- day, from 1 P.M. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Telephone is 649-1212. i i I I I i i r4 ulz � 1 P 649-1212 520 Center Street MANCHESTER Voted Best New Restaurant in Connecticut by Connecticut Magazine Read What the Criric-s are Srn urn +i One item that draws our top praise In fact, is Heavenly Hogs truly heavenly chili. it earns our unqualified endo rsement as the states best chili. I —Tern Montlick&Charlotte Libou i Hartford Courant i i •..the crowds must be amassing for the barbecued ribs:there y juicy and spicy,with lots of meat.The were Y they became the standard b good,in fact,that y which we measured all the BBQ, —New England Magazine i Pork ribs,their firm,tender meat falling off he bones.Here delicious coated in Tiny and spicy broiled chicken wings.Evenh'coated onion rims, baked in lemon garlic butter,irresistable apple' mild sauce. artichoke hearts crisp. Heavenly How is a hog heaven' —Hrvan and Monique Simonds-Hartford Courant's Northeast Magazine A MA,1„j,ER ,.OFTASTE . THE REA VENty no. G C.D.B.BRyAN AND MOB UE Q SIMONDS ulinmere burnout can come on as swiftly romance. What was novel ' y the end of a earn_ seems like leftovers.So if you've dust weeks ago suddenly kissed corn on the cob grilled your last bluefish and the tyrannosaurus lurking goodbye,perhaps it's time to revert to nivorousness at Manchesttee s s�II and get down to some serious car_ Real 3' amed H -av meager No barbecuing,as the�t of the world kno t'Hog, on agrill with a brushingof ern attempt at emulation. a far cry from our fled sugary gooP„It is an art T�hot sauce.Pork riO�g ribs or chicken form taken��Y,and at the Tom'tender meat falling off the Wig• the tend so think d ce rstand w Hog skeptics will un- a ere delicious coated sirloin hy! the mild sauce chunks in their beanless,feisty, From the moment it opened We hadn't eaten so.mum silken gravy woven from a tap. in Mph, Patrons starved for meat in along time,and yet we �' of flavors• Beans can be �i barbeCUe have felt none of the h added from Ong this former l been jam- meal's end that usually at served with the dish,slob with locale of. eese and onions... roomMek n f Restaurant.yiri�the �� such intakes. Should a � but�why,9 white �MY Painted gray.and 1 fresh, wander in,rigor Tiny and spicy broiled chicken white walls are red banquettes and� Quick- shrimp �fs � ce� �'a10-style.: fhI ng tables with black-and- marked cot � mops' �' plus blewch� � �� �i� char- white-checkered tablecloths, and tightly brushed eese din&Even- glass to ° with ly coated onion pi ping Thy"� two place- Jar,Someone here are brushed clear ty knows hot in a tilWi rings batter• areas,one each for smokers and "'hat he is doing,and that some- artichoke rtrcho hearti baked in le non-smokers.They are both ex_ one is owner and host David Ko- mon/garlic butter and topped PIosively noisy,both bright and lumber, a portly, courtly,, gre- with melting, browned mozza_ clean, and both filled with the garious former singing waiter re)Ja are another savvy choice bestial gnashing and Purring of and gourmet food shop owner whAndy not Ace we're in a piggery, fly dressed raptors _ collaborates closet y dessert. Bred before the kill ga Lky chef Nick Romsno Y with homemadeprod , 'the light, Here pork ribs are such heavenly wonders. uee bread pudding on r cequhocolate i hours until smoked for mined to share with us his ter ��ble apple crisp. ir- tender thenproperly fork- good f Heavenly H of three bar bathed saua choice of cod Kolumber is all egos i draw- _ over the place calling and seat- back is that the word is out;and Texas hot(chili-peppery, �a mg Patrons,cleaning up tables, thou the line of barbecue fans Ptoueppered of add'tY)' mild (subtly and helping make this spot so moves fast, better. come early. Personable The only missed;a h North and sweeter), and S and special. dam yS we �'olina�tyle (thinner, pectacular, too, is the chili P towel at meals end to re- laced with vinegar) --- and appetizer!It is the realest of rest Pair damages done. otherwise. grilled just enough to Heavenly Hog is a hog heaven that great charred tas and half-races of pork ribs,beef ribs, Full chicken, and sliced pork RAflMO; tenderloin are available, too. �VFrPFRE=520 ,S Entrees come with t.,Manchester and salad or a f $OOd f�e3 � Closed Sunday& Monds _ slaw that is a tad tastingCOle , turday11:30-Z30. Y F'ridsy 11:�- mayonnaise. heavy on the Friday-Saturday 5-10. Dinner.Monday-Thursday 5-9, Half-barbecued PM�: Appetizers $ Z_$5 95 turns into a sizable,crisp deli�n entrees$7-9`-13.95,deserts$2.�$3,50 es `�-$6 95, cY with the North Carolina- -T 649.1 2 style sauce,with which we felt it chairOUS: Visa & MasterCard worked best. Gargantuan por_ accessibility.BYolk beer and wine license only. Wheel bons of highest marks with No "f poor excellent **—good; * pending. achieved homey touches,such as sugar in old--anning jars, r and there's a chalkboard menu. The meal-size A r Y t { calamari appetizer was sweet and nongrcasy,and r. the swordfish Provencal and scampi Riviera(cream sauce with capers)sczurnptiou&Only the garlic was sadly more metaphysical than real in the one disap- T pointment,linguine with fresh dams.80 Pratt St, s c a (203)244-2100.Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30.Din- ner Mon-Wed 5-9,Thur-Sat until 10.Closed Sun. ' z V. Moderate to expensive.AE,DC,MC,V. Qxi�r �C;i1MANCHESTER i t NEw It's standing room only at barbecue cen- t ral.On our first attempt at a meal at _M_ The Heavenly Hog,a half hour wait at 8:30 on „u a Wednesday night sent us grumbling off to faster r *t food.On our next try,we stuck it out and found that the crowds must be amassing for the barbecued i ribs:they're juicy and spicy,with lots of meat and none ofthat awful bottled sauce flavor.They were Maybe it's both.This last visit we had the pesto so good,in fact,that they became the standard by C O N N E C T 1 C U T with grilled salmon and with saner xalarnan;next winch we measured all the BBQ.The chicken,for time well try it on one of the pizzas that tantalize example,was moist,too,but couldrit compete with from the wood-burning oven. For every visit, the ribre smoky taste And then there was the wimpy EASTERN CONNECTICUT dessert means only one thing:a huge portion of barbecued pork sandwich.It was so unsatisfying tiranu su — layers of rich, creamy java-loaded we deemed it The Purgatorial Pig.520 Center St, { custard. 904 Farmington Ave, (203) 2.33-4520. (203)649-1212.Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-3.Sat until Lunch Mon-Fri 11:45-2:30.Dinner Mon-Thur 2:30. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri-Sat until 10. OLD LYM E 5:30-10,Fri-Sat until 10:30.Closed Sun.Reserva- Closed Sun.Moderate.MC,V A jaunt to the gussied-up seacoast town of Old tions recommended.Moderate to expensive.AE, Lyme is always perfectly pleasant,but it's brunch MC,V. WEST HARTFORD at the Bee and Thistle that really draws us for We atrived late one night at steel:,high-tech Top repeat adventures.There s always a smorgasbord of With a drop-dead view of the Capitol,Bushnell Nosh Deli and Bakery with teenage-size ap- homemade breads and muffins to start the mood Park,and the Soldiers and Sailors Arch,who cares petites,and were quickly comforted by the size of off right.Then,a bit of pheasant stew,perhaps,or that Cafe on the Park has the feel of a motel din- the sandwiches:a mega-pastrami,chopped liver excellent crab cakes with remoulade sauce,served ing room(fair enough,since it occupies the second and Swiss cheese,and a jaw-breaker Reuben.But j on a crisp bed of endive,radicchio,and watercress. floor of the Ramada Inn).The restaurant,the lab for we found the quality uneven:not enough garlic in And for dessert, fresh strawberries with Grand the Connecticut Culinary Institute, produces the half-sours; delectable coleslaw, but no Marnier — best lingered over on the sun porch superior Proven4al bistro food.The appetizers— mushrooms in the mushroom-barley soup;stuffed overlooking the inns gardens.100 Lyme St,(203) squid with garlic and basil,shrimp in olive sauce cabbage on the bland side,but great chicken kabobs 434-1667.Breakfast Mon-Sat 8-10,Sun until 9:30. —were good,and the grilled tuna steak with pcp- The desserts;looked great,but after pigging out on Lunch Mon, Wed-Sat 11-2. Dinner Wed Thur, pens and capers was pleasantly charred and tender- deli,how could we give them a try?We are adults, Sun-Mon 6-9,Fri-Sat until 9:30.Sun brunch 11-2. moist.If only all students could cook like this.440 after all.29 Main St,(203)521-7110,Beer and wine- Reservations recommended.Expensive.Cr. Asylum St, (203) 524-8274. Breakfast daily Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m.,Sat until 12 a.m.,Sun from 6-10:30. Lunch daily 11:30-2:30. Dinner daily 7 a.m.Moderate.MC,V. STONINGTON 5-10.Moderate AE,MC,V. NEw Every town should have a real tavern: REVIEW dim lighting,closely spaced tables,along Nope,its not an executive dining room at Mother i bar,no-nonsense waitresses,local memorabilia on Aetna, it just looks that way. Kim Son's is all the walls,decent food.Nothing cute or flashy.Ston- respectable postmodem gray and pink,not funky ington has this in the Harborview Restaurant. as you might expect at the Coft Factory complex. You can get clams on ice and a darn good special— But here you find dim sum on weekends,Viet- say,fettuccine Alfredo with shrimp—while enjoy- namese-Chinese cuisine,and(trust us)a separate THE USUAL SUSPECTS ing the hopping atmosphere.So,don't be put off macrobiotic menu.Skip the bland sauteed spare ribs �r UAmericain: The stage is beautifully set: by its billboard outside of town,valet parking,or and ginger chicken for the shrimp with bean thread elegant room,attentive service,and a kitchen formal dining room in the back.Take it from the and beef with chili pepper—both spicy and right that belongs to a perfectionist whose strong suit is sign above the bar:Good food,good meat,good on. 34 Sequassen St, (203) 525-1978. Lunch flavor.2 Hartford Sq W.,(203)522-6500.expen- Lord, let's eat. 60 Water St, (203) 535-2720. Tue-Sat 11-2.Dinner Tue-Thur 4-9,Fri-Sat until sive to very expensive...Apricots:Still elegant, Mon-Sat 11:30-10,Sun from 11.Moderate to ex- 11, Sun until 10. Sat-Sun brunch 10-2. Closed relaxed,and the prettiest restaurant in the Hartford pensive.AE,CB,DC,MC,V. Mon.BYO.Inexpensive.AE,MC,V area. 1593 Farmington Ave, Farmington, (203) 673-5405, expensive ... Carbone's:To say the THE USUAL SUSPECTS NEw Luna Pizza is all the rage these days:a name of this Italian South End haunt is to salivate. Harborview Restaurant:60 Water St,Stonington, IREVIEW clean, well-lighted place Papa could 588 Franklin Ave,(203)296-9646,expensive... (203)535-2720(see this month's review) ... Old adore.They serve pizza,nothing but pizza,with a Congress Rotisserie:You conic here for the sleek Lyme Inn:So suburbo-preppy,you half expect to crisp,paper-thin crust and fresh,fight sauce There's surroundings,not for the namesake roasted fare.7 see the ghost ofJohn Chen er table-hopping,tak- also white pis with creamy mozzarella and garlic, Maple Ave,(203)560-1965,moderate to expensive ing notes.85 Lyme'St,Old Lyme,(203)434-2600, and a side dish of anchovies in sauce.That's it.No ...Hot Tomato's:Flashy new quarters in a high- very expensive. salad,no bread,r io coffee,no dessert.For anyone rent district has had orily marginal effect on the with a smidgen of room left,there's always carvioli prices,and —thank goodness— no effect on the and cappuccino d- n the street at Mozzicato's.341 pasta. 1 Union P1,(203)249-5100,moderate.. Franklin Ave, (;, 296-0353. Dinner Tue-Sun Max on Main:Hip comes to Hartford'You heard GREATER HARTFORD 4-10.Closed Mon.Inexpensive.N. it here first'205 Main St,(203)522-2530,moderate ' to expensive Municipal Restaurant: Thu %Vere crazy about the raffishly elegant charmofNo grab-a-bite-and-get-back-to-the-office cafeteria HARTFORD Fish Today,as well as the name,winch reters to I also serves really good fo od.even ittt looks as if Ed- Is it the soft mauve neon or the sundried tomato I signs in Prohibition-era saloons alerting patrons ward Hopper did the decor. 487 Main St,(203) pesto that keeps us con th ung back to Assaggio? � when the booze ran dry.The wooden boos have 278-4210,moderate.. .Peppercorns Grill: We 74 SFPTEMBER 1990 *l� RESTAURANTS 1 The management is always right. Desserts were predictable—chocolate 1 There were seven starters on the menu. mousse pie,white chocolate mousse,Black Distinctive Children's We tried four.Best was the shrimpcocktail Forest cake, a tart of puff pastry,p p ry,custard, t - Clothing &Gifts featuring huge,crisply fresh shrimp with the strawberries and kiwi, sherbet, ice cream. usual red cocktail sauce.The oysters were Strawberries Romanoff were described aslimp and tasteless. Marinated asparagus fresh strawberries with zabaglione sauce. consisted of woody pencil-thin asparagus When we got past the blob of fake whipped ✓ �� dressed with an oddly sweet vinaigrette.My cream, we found rather good strawberries friend Barbara was eager to try"marinated in a thin,flavorless custard sauce.The Key salmon strips with linguine."When it arrived, lime pie was tart and intense under its hefty she thought a mistake had been made. It squirt of ersatz whipped cream. �j looked a bit like a dish of herring with sour Well,wf,had dined in a gorgeous garden. cream.Assured that she had received what And we had tasted big-city excitement,for she had ordered,she dug in.Salmon strips this garden is larger than life and filled with were nowhere to be found in,under,or any- talk and laughter.At Christmas it is a winter where near the pile of linguine weighed wonderland. We would like to dine here -` down with cream sauce and raw onion again.We would like the food to be better, rings. The sauce did taste of smoked sal- the service more caring.Be gone,Scrooge. mon—very strong and very salty."Perhaps We choose to believe that wishing will they pureed the salmon and added it to the make it so. sauce,"Barbara ventured.She asked if any of us would like to finish it.None of us did. A bibb lettuce salad was more successful. I The buttery bibb was combined with crisp, WINRELD'S fresh watercress and spears of endive,equal- Hyatt Regency r ly crisp and fresh. 1800 E.Putnam Ave. Entr6e time.I had wanted"seafood trio," Old Greenwich i a which the menu said included lobster tail, 637-1234 I scallops and tuna,but our waitress warned against it. "It isn't very fresh," she said. I Open daily for breakfast,lunch and dinner thanked her for the information and ordered (6:30 A.M. to 11 P.M.). Wheelchair access. a grilled veal chop with wild mushroom Major credit cards.Price range:Appetizers sauce.She assured me that I could have the $6.25 to$6.95,soups$3.50,salads$4.50 to sauce on the side.She took the rest of our $11.50,sandwiches$7.25 to$7.75,entrbes orders and disappeared for a very long time. $11.75 to$17.25,desserts$3.50 to$3.75. Surely our main courses were ready,but no, she appeared empty-handed to tell me that 11-11 , they were out of the veal chop."But if you ,FI:�� f r jam, i -1 would like to order something else—the chef says he will get it right out." RESTAURANT NOTE $ In I refrained from asking why it took so Free Gift Wrapping g long to discover the unavailability of a veal Celestial suggestion:Pig out at The Heav- Gifts Shipped UPS chop and, not wishing to chance delaying enly Hog in Manchester. Barbecue buffs my guests any longer,ordered a New York from Texas to North Carolina swear by it— Gifts by Phone strip sirloin,rare.How long could that take? "it"being pork or beef smoked in a pit or Quite a while,it turned out.But it was good. smoker for 14 hours,doused with a choice Gifts& Stocking When in a hotel,order shrimp and steak. of pepper-packed sauce and given a shot on Stuffers Galore At Winfield's,seafood pasta fettucine suf- the grill.Man,that's tender.The meat falls fered from a paucity of scallops,shrimp and from the ribs,melts off the fork,carries me Children's Books crab.The pasta was mushy and grew more back to old Virginny,and has been known Personalized Birth so by the minute,served as it was in a soup to reactivate a Louisiana drawl.They serve bowl half full of cream sauce. The grilled other stuff,too—chili made with sirloin tips, Announcements salmon,fresh and properly cooked,was fine chicken wings,grilled shrimp and sea scal- Infant to 4 T once its blanket of overpoweringly sweet- lops.Decor?Forget it.Crowded?You bet- and-sour tomato relish was scraped off. cha.(649-1212) Lanz PJ's to 14 An order of beef fajitas was a show- Under old management, Portofino in stopper. A great many strips of marinated Woodbury has become Cafe Central. It Dresses to Pre-Teen steak, along with a lot of sauteed peppers looks the same, cooks the same, but the and onions, were presented on a sizzling prices have gone down.Who says inflation Holiday Hours platter set in a wood cutting board. (The is a one-way street?Now,you can bring the Mon.-Wed. 9:30-6.00 steak was delicious, but the onions and whole family.(263-2371) Thurs.&Fri. 9:30-8:30 peppers were greasy and cut in unwieldy Sat. 9:30-6:00 chunks.)A footed urn held guacamole,sour Two corrections for our September re- Sun. 11:00-6:00 cream,tomato salsa and grated cheddar— views.- We mistakenly reported that Da Pi- all fresh and bright.A pile of tortillas,huge etro's in Westport was closed on Mondays. 1431 Post Road,Fairfield,CT 06430 and folded in quarters,hid under a minia- Not so—you can indulge any day but Sun- 203-255-1122 ture straw sombrero.Cute;kids should love day.Also,the correct phone number for Bel- it,and aren't we all kids at Christmas? lini in Hartford is 296-2100. ■ 114 CONNFUIRtj, DECEMBER 1") i words.Thus,you're offered Pork Loin instead of for the delicate,f nnicky eater,be prepared to puerco verte($8)or Custard Cupcake instead of roll up your sleeves and dig in.The half-rack of flan(75 cents).Fortunately the dishes are not simi- ribs($7.95)will satisfy any rib-lover.Like most larly Americanized.The food is well spiced,served . entrees,it's served with a heaping portion of deh- on generous beds of yellow rice and garnished with cious tole slaw and Cajun-spiced french fries. This tangy black olives.We recommend the Portuguese place is no longer a secret,so come early or be version of Shish-ka-bob($8.50),which combines ■ prepared to wait beef,shrimp,peppers and onions.And be sure you inquire about the specials,which may include HUMAN TASTE,555 Day Hill Road, Rabbit Stew,Tripe or Roast Baby Pig. ■ ■ Windsor. 298-8303.A bright and contemporary decor sets off the fine food and attentive service in this FRANK'S CAFE PRONTO, 185 new Chinese eatery. Don't miss the House Special Lo Asylum St., Hartford. 527-9291.When Frank's Mein($6.75),with its scattering of vegetables and Restaurant, one of Hartford's dining landmarks, . seafood. Each platter is artistically arranged in the announces that it's opening a cafe for lower-priced classic Peking manner,with gamishes of carved veg- dining,you know that has to be good news.The etables.This is one Chinese establishment that's worth new cafe is an attractive place for a simple meal, a detour to visit. cooked to the standards you'd expect from Frank's. , Meals chosen from the center"bull's eye"of the menu IT'S ONLY NATURAL,686 Main St., cost less than$6.The Rollatini of Eggplant,stuffed ■ a Middletown.346-1786.visit this storefront restaurant with ricotta and served with a tossed salad,is particu- for a dinner your heart will thank you for.It's Only larly notable($5.65).The cafe menu is not available Natural serves entirely vegetarian dishes,made from prior to any event in the Civic Center coliseum,or ■ organic,pesticide-free ingredients.The menu lists before 3 p.m.on Sundays. entrees such as Chinese-style Spring Roll,Gado-Gado (an Indonesian dish of steamed vegetables in a peanut GAETANO'S CAFE, 1 Civic Center Plaza, sauce,served over rice),and a pasta of the day.Most Hartford. 249-1629. If your tastebuds have gone meals are$8.95,including whole grain bread,a small, into hibernation for the winter,we suggest this ginger-flavored pasta appetizer,and a choice of soup alarm clock:Orecchietti Puttanesca,a preparation of ■ . or salad.Try the salad dressing made with tahini,a small, round pasta tossed with tomatoes,ripe ol- sesame seed paste. ives,capers,anchovies,red pepper and garlic.It's $8.95,on the new,lower-priced cafe menu that's JIM'S FAMILY RESTAURANT & been added at Gaetano's,one of Hartford's glitzier PIZZERIA, 124 Poquonock Ave.,Windsor. restaurants.Another outstanding option is Calamari 688-5953.The first thing that hits you about Jim's i Aromatico,spicy fried squid served with mixed is the aroma—a wonderful mix of garlic,herbs greens and a Caesar-style dressing($5.75)•The cafe ■ and spices.Fortunately,the flavors live up to the dishes are served in Gaetano's bar,which has com- aroma.Try the Baked Manicotti Parmigiana($6.25) fortable banquettes and full-sized tables. or the skewer-pierced Chicken Souvlaki($7.95), lightly marinated and nesting on a bed of Rice Pilaf. HAL'S AQUARIUS,2790 Main St., ■ ■ The service is friendly and speedy,and the menu is Hartford.247-0435.For many years,the North End's so extensive that you could eat at Jim's for a month notables have been meeting and eating in the silver- ■ and try a new meal every night. and-plum-colored diner known as Hal's.These days, the eatery's reputation as a soul food spot rests prima- LA BOCA,526 Win St.,Middletown.346- rily on its vegetable dishes,which include wonderfully 4492. Located in Wesleyan University's backyard. spicy collard greens and very good yams.If you've . La Boca is a Mexican restaurant that combines never gone beyond fast-food fried chicken,be sure to south-of-the-bonder flavor with the comfortable feel try the version prepared at Hal's,which tastes like the , of a college hang-out.Appetizers are recommended open-skillet cooking done throughout the South. ■ ■ only for those with the most voracious of appetites,as Prices vary,with meat-plus-two-veggies generally the entrees here are more than generous.Served with around$7.These days,it's easier than ever to pay a ■ guacamole and rice,the Chicken Burro Delux(17.25) visit to this institution,since it's located at the Main ■ . is delicious.Alsorecommended is the Chimichanga Street end of the new Weston Street bridge. ($8.95),a large fried burrito with cheese and either chicken or shredded beef.The diner with less severe HEAVENLY NOG,520 Center St., ■ . hunger pangs should try either the Taco Salad(S6.95) Manchester. 649-1212,The atmosphere here is . or the Vegetable Crisp(S7.50). more like a small bistro than a barbeque pit,but don't let that fool you.This place serves up won- LANATA'S SEAFOOD MARKET derful,tangy Southern specialties. Its not the place ■ • & EATERY, 30 Welles St., Glastonbury. 659- 2q JANUARY 1991 / 1 � ■v.i■v .vv�arwas College forecaster The LOCK, it seems, has headed south Minnesota over WISCONSIN +51/ 2:00 left and it chance to take the lead for the holiday. This is the latest in the If anyone has an opinion on this game against second-ranked Auburn, Mississippi season the LOCK mark has been .500. The either way, please contact me. St., which hasn't won an SEC game in ages, LOCK mark has never ever been this ? ' decided to kick the extra-point instead of go mediocre this late. It must be the economy. FRANk f ` Colorado +61/z over NEBRASKA for the will.The kick was blocked. What wits Just call me the Buster Douglas of college "We deserve to be ranked higher. We're protecting'? Whv not play for the gthis coach forecasters. I just can't seem to find anything CORSOE ' being slighted again." Haven't we heard this .i � win. He should he fired lur I 1Nin,t liar tli� to muster any sense of vitality. When I'm garbage from Nebraska before? Well No. 2 tie. How can players ever respect it bozo like close to a win, C-F loses by a half-point. Nebraska has beaten Baylor, No. Illinois, that? And l thought Rocky was it champion When my team has the lead with no chance has clone unbelievable job of building foot- Minnesota (although some suspect it's the of losing, there's always the excuse-me ball fortunes. Virginia is talented, though of the underdog. y b Screaminf, Eagles from Minnesota State touchdown.For instance, Pitt scores with :30 not the No. 1 team in the country. What's under Hayden Fox), Oregon State, Kansas Penn State over W. VA. +101/z left in the game. Pitt had no chance of interesting here is if 'Tech wins, then it will State, Missouri, Oklahoma St. and Iowa It used to be West Virginia always 1 ncd winning,yet it scored just to ruin my day and be an undefeated team from the ACC and State, g p ` no one will mention it as the to team in the Penn State tough. But that was then and this my LOCK last week. p Yes, this must be the pits. country. Sure it tied North Carolina, but Mississippi +2/z over LSU is now. Penn State is in full stride defensiwe- But better days — I've been saying this for Tech will still be unbeaten. I know I'm going Billy Brewer is Southeastern Conference ly. When that happens very few te:uns can three straight weeks — are lurking ahead. against the grain but that hasn't stopped me coach of the year guiding the 7-1 Ole Miss beat the Nittany Lions. Last week, Joe When everything is said and done and the before. I expect an outstanding effort from Rebels. Paterno yanked quarterback starter Tony LOCK has found its niche and the overall the Tech defense to keep this game close. Sacca for Tom Bill. It worked. I expect Sacca record soars over .500,we'll laugh. But until Wash. St. +2 over STANFORD back in the lineup and Bill back to man a then, it's my party and I'll cry if I want to. BC +10 over Syracuse What a shame, the Stanford band won't talented bullpen. West Virginia was handled For the record: A home underdog getting double digits is be appearing at this game due to school easily by Boston College. Impressive bowl ■ The LOCK mark 4-4 hard to refuse. BC comes off impressive win punishment. It seems the spoiled brats were for Penn State if it finishes with only hwo ■ Last week's mark. 6-9 over West Virginia, a longtime nemesis, and booed off the field last week at Autzen losses. ■ Season record: 57-58-2 returns home chock full of confidence. BC Stadium in Eugene, Ore., when the merry 11111•Percentage: .495 may have found itself just in time to save the malcontents criticized the forest industry, Kansas St. +51/2 over Okla. St. season. accused Oregonians of running backyard pot Can't imagine Pistol Pete's gang giving The LOCK crops and the likes. We won't even mention any (eam, including Rockville High, points. FLORIDA over Auburn +3 Iowa +4 over ILLINOIS the monetary damage the band caused. And Kansas State +41h was one of my few Matt Rodgers, ex-Celtic head coach then after the game — ha, a 31-0 shellacking winners last week in the Toto Bowl. is it Just remember the guy on the Auburn Jimmy's son, has a bundle of talent and is by my beloved Ducks — the Cardinal playersl possible for them to come down from such a sidelined will be playing for a Dye (C-F cool under pressure guiding Iowa offense. If refused the talk. They didn't refuse to talk igh last week? No problemo, as Vlacle terminology for ties). Florida has the better Hayden Fox, I mean Hayden Fry's when they upset Notre Dame some wee )ivac would say. offense and ungestionably the better de- Hawkeyes can beat Michigan in Ann Arbor, back, did they? Since then they've lost by fence. This, ladies and gentlemen, is the they can beat Illinois in Champagne-Urbana. combined scores of 120-38. ARKANSAS over Rice +51/2 Gators'bowl game. U-F had last week off in With a win, Iowa can move into driver's seat The Southwest Conference has hannecl preparing for Tie Dyes. Just call a shaky for the crowded car heading to Pasadena. Oregon over UCLA +10 pork products this year because of Arkansas''l Auburn road team Gator bait. A Saturday I'm still not sold on the.Illinois offense. Oregon's fine quarterback Bill Musgrave dash to the SEC. The Piggies are 2-5 and if night special in Gainesville where everyone is 18-1 at home. It looks like the bowl-bound they keep this up, they'll wind up on the is happy. Gator bait again to you, Pat Dye. N.C. State over VA. TECH +21/z - Ducks will be 19-1 after this one. Power menu at the Heavenly Hog in Manchester. The rest Just a sneaky suspicion. ratings favor Oregon by 13 sticks. Quack The Rice Owls h ave rallied and are respec- . ._.__ Attack is polished and ready to go. table at 3-5. Ga. Tech +131h over VIRGINIA COLO. ST. over Womin Just the line tells you who's g +31/z going to win Alabama over Miss. St. +81/2 Virginia had last week off to prepare for this game. The ranked team is the team Did Rocky Felker, Mississippi St. coach, Frank Corsoe, executive sporls editor of the the Rambling Wreck. Wreck's Bobby Ross getting the points. attend the Pat Dye School of Ties? With Journal Inquirer, is editor of Inside Football. DINING OUT _ J RESTAURANT REVIEW i w i Fi iF .rw i. w w rn Fri. w rr w r w . r w w r .r F leavenly indeed, ►arbecue at Hog x [ves up to name F•s 'K V 6, ': ', T ,1111Y NIONTLICK d CHARLOTTE LIBOV urant Restaurant Critics C6 ere in the Northeast, barbecue is strictly culinary kid stuff— a steak amateur kind buts or chicken leg slapped on a grill and The Heavenly Hog Restaurant cated chili palate. broiled a little,maybe with a slather lack of beans,whit, sweet bottled sauce. 520 Center St. *** along with onions a But in most of the country,barbecue is high Manchester relish tray served : t practiced in lowly surroundings.Most of it 649-1212 The Hog misses smoked in a pit or smoker for many hours, Hours:Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11:30-3, Sat.11:30- Barbecue pork sar til the meat is fork-tender. Then a flavor- 2:30;dinner,Mon-Thurs, 5.9, Fri and Sat,5- smoking the pork,it eked barbecue sauce is added, and the 10,closed Sunday barbecue sauce, gi% ntrasting flavors of the mature, smoky Price range:One menu at all times; depth of flavor poss ?at and chili pepper-packed sauce make appetizers,$2.50-$5.95; sandwiches, onions and green pep autiful music. $2.95-$6.95;entrees,$7.95-$13.95; in comparision with desserts,$2.25-$3.25 It's difficult to imagi For verrs,Connecticut's premiere aulhen Credit cards: MC and Visa turing here, but th barbecue was served at a little Stratford Grilled Shrimp and ;eout joint called Stick to Your Ribs, but Reservations:Taken for parties of 6 or more P w, with the opening of the aptly named Children's portions:Yes ever so lightly with p!avenly Hog in Manchester, Greater Hart- No•smokingseating:Yes were superb. rd threatens to offer some serious Handicapped access:Good Other items that ar include an appetizer c mpetition. Liquor license:BYOB(wine and beer license are a pleasant twist of ding) At this former Chinese restaurant,decor is pen with carrot and Celt pt to a minimum. The most prominant Directions:From Hartford,take Exit 60 off I- cheese dressing,the wi namental note is the collection of whimsi- 84 East, right off ramp,stay in right lane, buffalo-style but tempi 1 pigs, in cardboard, porcelain and papier- restaurant just past the fourth light. becue sauce instead. 4'; ache. They are smiling, as are the diners, Key sauce,which combines beit for different reasons. FOOD VALUE broiled flavor of the wi Here at the Hog, the basic barbecue pork Baked artichoke he:**** EXCELLENT $$$OVERPRICED They were baked in a )s are slowly smoked for 14 hours, then *** VERY GOOD $$ON THE MONEY and topped with brown used in vour choice of barbecue sauce and ,F* GOOD $A BARGAIN FAIR la. A side of onion ring ickly grilled. * POOR Though crisp,these had For the sauce, you can select Texas hot, vor and tasted like froze Id,or North Carolina-style, The Texas hot After all this,it would: wonderfully tart and spicy, with plenty of Heavenly Hog's major problem is keeping have dessert,bui if you a ili-pepper flavor. The mild was no slouch, its sauces straight.On one visit,the mild and it in, opt for the Chocola her. It was full-bodied, with a demure but hot sauces were accidentally swapped and wedge of creamy fudge p, rasing accent of het pepper and a touch of appeared on the wrong orders.Another time, brownie crust. ,eetness. North Carolina-style is chili-pep- the sauces were incorrectly formulated, so The only problem with r-laced vinegar,but we really can't recom- that the mild sauce got the chili-pepper dose since word has gotten c end this one on the ribs. This sauce is that the hot sauce should have had, and vice packed and the lines long 3ditionally mixed into chopped, smoked versa. Heavenly Hog has been flooded with come early,come often,a, rk,drenching the meat through and through patrons starved for good barbecue and appar- consider takeout. th flavor. But Heavenly Hog's use of this ently is having problems keeping up with the i uce on ribs was ineffectual. This sauce is If you have news of resta, n 1 too thin to stick and to adequately de:?iand. P Y 9 closings, menu or staff changes, Ivor the meat. Th i ribs are plenty good,and if the kitchen other items of interest,write to A la t, gets its Pict together,they could be consistent- Section, The Hartford Courant, 285 .. Beef ribs are available with the same ly super or. But one item that draws our top Hartford, Conn, 06115. You may also ti ices. They are big and meaty and were praise Heaver' —'s truly heavenly chili. Terry Montlick and Charlotte Lictiov in care o, •r risingly good with the mild barbecue In fa e:- ualified endorsement i(e, even though beef ribs usually take a I a•;�e This beautiful "bowl Features Depar ment, at the same address. x is sauce. A hefty half of a barbecued of et style stuff:chunks a is ;eu available or, its own or in cembina- me An tips cooked in ; Brsides reviewing restau ants,4or The Courant. n�, it1=:' ',,lf of a rack of pork ribs,was 1Isu thit Fm lots of pure, I Charlotte ' -ov and Terry Afontir` `'-,v* -itten 6 h tl.e milder sauce. is not the sw,.ct. nb: u�d ja o!hcr publications. °es, DINING OUT - RESTAURANT REVIEW Here theyare• pheasant under glass4 this is your chance. quail makg fine ent (Copper Beech Inn,46 Main St., potatoes enhance e • Ivoryton,767.0330) Chicken;try the gar ' 1911 Park St.,K the ear s topBut French wasn't the only,cuisine�that ` ws y excelled.Three Italian restaurants,all relative newcomers,received the coveted For more-than three-and-a-half-star rating too.The (� a n newest-is-Bacci's id-Southbury,which has been sery ' , i restaurants Italian f features Northern Italian fare served in a Ma o ro formal but not forbidding atmosphere.:. Even the fine live music doesn't_outshine estr sec the bo ra spdbsA By TERRY MONTLICK the great food,which includes some (Fran s and CHARLOTTE LIBOV unusual Piedmont specialties from own 5 �q � Courant Restaurant Critics Enea Bacci's homeland.For value, cant beat'the Sunday brunch.(134cci s t e ' e t Restaurant,900 Main St.S�h, bumper Crop Ol ZO Southbury,262.1250) lar- elit d- coned, a So a yle ribs a Arestaurants earned at In n a for regional 0 ones,be au 3n Italian 0, is rcorns gill.You start n virl least three stars from us_ --with the great,ro extured Italian bs,b peasant bread and move on to the delicious the be% this year,.more than the pastas or such homey favorites as (Heave number we've found in the ast Polpettone,an Italian-style meatloaf. St:,Ma p Being hard-core pizza fanatics from fewears. Haven,we're hard to please but we y grudgingly gave our approval to rov Peppercorns pies.(Peppercorns Grill, fixing differ t Q .These restaurants offer 357 Main St.,Hartford,547.1714) roof of one restau different types of'cuisines in a re becoming quite p a t Even though Gennaro's has been around there's a full Chinese Wide price range if so even for a few years In New Haven,it still se s notch sushi bar,so to like a new kid on the block.Dining he s garnished rice can ea your blue chi s more casual and a little less expensive less adventuresome f P other three-and-a-half-star wi barbecued spareribs, your mutual o less delicious.Bot Rest nt, 1600 s alian f on,674-1 can still enjoy ,k or a great introdu And that must To a nN[ :. „ highly spit delights w""' ► #aid a Sund f drive t Imo: e not leaner, times aheaC re • � " �`` �'�'� �.. ne s 'pti.. Earning a rare four stars (and our tllre�ita tom Y four-star rating for 1990) was Stonehen°" � rteies it €> fishes as an impeccably decorated restaurant se. �.�� Vegetable Ja featuring terrific French and American 4e1I#geyfo !Ss, LaIfo food.The setting is lovely,the food b �;ulW64" a to jlos t, $: Aqr beautifully presented,and the service befitti bt+nce mostly Fr artful.You might have to make a hefty x bank withdrawal for this one,but we can't dishes thrown i ,. Ake ► think of a more perfect place fojka special after all.The pastas a dinner.(Stonehenge,StonehoM Inn entrees very well prepare Road,Ridgefield,438.431 desserts appropriately rich.(Be Ristorarrte,43$Franklin Ave., is.mtp We had a passel of three-an artford,527.2100) do F winners,the most Restaurant du Villa The decor of Faces is simple,the service don a jac pretty Chester.The f minimal,and prices surprisingly high.But Square,Hartford,' French,but the restaurant thanks to ample portions of very good food, pretentious.The appetizers a it's hard not to like Faces.Desserts are Enough with the fan superb,but the real glory is simply ice creams,but there's nothing Italian food!Where eh skip the Souffle Glac6 Gran ier. simple about them.Strong-flavored,rich lovers go,you ask?WI., (Restaurant Du Village,5 ain St., and creamy,they leave fancier desserts in where the food is very g� Chester,526-S301) the dust.(Faces Restaurant,702 large and the service frienL Highland Ave.,Waterbury,753.1181) made from fresh,high-quality If,somehow,1990 left you really flush, and decorated with smashingly►. live out your elegant-dining fantasies wita here's nothing like fine Portuguese neon-colored flowers cunningly cat !he top-notch food at the Copper Beech inn. qd t;..a tsoa is one of the best from giant radishes.(Panda Inn,86, w will find it pretentious;others will qMA sr is CV151re is known for Farmington Ave.West Hartford„233 �o the nearly ludicrous luxury of `'\ -' 44/' fresh clams in white S384) Victorian restaurant.If garlicky brown sauce. Everything we said al Panf a 7p- ak,pork cadets and goes for Bristol Panda,-': �°